It is a given things will change - bicycle technology is progressing almost as rapidly as computer technology. Who would have thought we were going to have carbon fiber bicycles and components outfitted with Garmin GPS / Power meter devices, electronic shifting has already hit the market. It was only 20 years ago, a bicycle made with alloy Columbus SL tubing and outfitted with Campy parts and a heart rate monitor was considered cutting edge. All I can remember of my track bike from the 80s was that it was a Riggio. I can’t remember what the components were nor the gearing I used – I didn’t see the value of keeping notes back then. The Riggio was an upgrade from a Lotus track bike, which was more of a fixed gear bike for the road. This post is to take a 2009 snap shot of my bike and components. It would be interesting to look back in time to this snap shot should I be around another 20 years from now – being around is not a given.
Frame – Tiemeyer Standard Signature Alum Frame with headset & fork ($1,350)
(A very well designed aerodynamic and stiff frame, best frame I have ridden so far. Attention to details such as the titanium dropouts which prevent grooving from wheel bolts, also the dropouts are extra long to accommodate a wide variety of gear ratios without having to change the chain.)
Headset – Chris King
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Fork – Reynolds Track Carbon Fiber
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Seat post – FSA Carbon Fiber ($60)
(Good value for money)
Seat – Prolite ($20)
(Comfortable saddle)
Stem – Thompson 90mm ($90)
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Handlebars – Deda Pista Track Bars 42cm ($100)
(Seems to be a popular aluminum bar)
Bottom Bracket – Campagnolo Record Track (68x111, English) Sealed ($150)
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Crank – Sugino Grand Mighty 170mm ($290)
(This crank is a step up from the Sugino 75. Chain rings are easy to change since nuts are part of the crank - you don’t have to worry about holding them in place when removing bolts. This makes for a more pleasant experience when changing gear ratios.)
Chain – Izumi V NJS Approved Track Chain ($80)
(This is a robust chain designed for Keirin racing, consisting of a screw type master link. You do have to keep an eye on the screw type master link connection to make sure it is tight, vibrations tend to loosen the connection when the chain is new.)
Wheels – Mavic Ellipse Clinchers ($500)
(These are bomb proof wheels, had them for three years now and never had to true nor do any thing to them except change tires. Used for training, sprinting and racing)
Tires – Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX 23mm Clinchers for Mavic Ellipse. ($60 each)
(Great supple lightweight clincher tires. I’ve notice that 125 psi is the optimum pressure for these tires on Kissena Track.)
Wheels – Karbona Disk & Tri Spoke Tubular ($1,000 for pair)
(Value for money carbon fiber wheels ordered directly from Taiwan. These are used for time trials and racing.)
Tires – Tufo S3 Lite Tubular 19mm Front & 21mm Rear ($60 each)
(Light weight high pressure tubular with 19mm tubular on the front for better aerodynamics on the Karbona carbon fiber tri spoke wheel and 21mm on the disk. I’ve noticed that 140 psi with these tires seem to be the optimum pressure for Kissena track, anything higher and you are in for a rough bumpy ride especially when using aero bars.)
Chainrings – Sugino & FSA ($50 each)
(These are the most popular and affordable brands. Chain rings in my set are 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 & 53)
Cogs – Dura Ace ($20)
(Most widely available and popular. Cogs in my set 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. Gear ratios which I use are 79, 81 86 for warm up and 88, 90, 92 & 94 for racing, 96 to 108 for time trials)
Shoes – Specialized Body Geometry Pro Road Shoe ($250)
(Specialized body geometry products are well designed and best value for money without breaking the bank.)
Pedals – Shimano DurAce SPD - SL 7810 ($250)
(I’ve pulled out one too many times from the Nashbar Look styled $40 pedals on the track. It is a shame the weakest link on my track bike set up were the Nashbar Look pedals, using no float black cleats. The only reason for using these pedals was to be able to use the same shoe on my road bike, spin bike and track bike. I therefore needed a better solution for the track. Andrew LaCorte, Michael Robinson & Delroy Walters recommended I get the Shimano SPD style pedals and add a toe strap at the back using tie wraps. This solution is more secure with the no float red cleats - the tension on these pedals are very high, the toe straps are an added security measure for standing starts. There is no way of simply adding a toe strap to the Nashbar Look styled pedals.
Shimano Dura Ace SPD-SL 7810 pedals with added toe strap using tie wraps.
Nashbar Look styled pedals.
Frame – Tiemeyer Standard Signature Alum Frame with headset & fork ($1,350)
(A very well designed aerodynamic and stiff frame, best frame I have ridden so far. Attention to details such as the titanium dropouts which prevent grooving from wheel bolts, also the dropouts are extra long to accommodate a wide variety of gear ratios without having to change the chain.)
Headset – Chris King
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Fork – Reynolds Track Carbon Fiber
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Seat post – FSA Carbon Fiber ($60)
(Good value for money)
Seat – Prolite ($20)
(Comfortable saddle)
Stem – Thompson 90mm ($90)
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Handlebars – Deda Pista Track Bars 42cm ($100)
(Seems to be a popular aluminum bar)
Bottom Bracket – Campagnolo Record Track (68x111, English) Sealed ($150)
(Recommended by David Tiemeyer)
Crank – Sugino Grand Mighty 170mm ($290)
(This crank is a step up from the Sugino 75. Chain rings are easy to change since nuts are part of the crank - you don’t have to worry about holding them in place when removing bolts. This makes for a more pleasant experience when changing gear ratios.)
Chain – Izumi V NJS Approved Track Chain ($80)
(This is a robust chain designed for Keirin racing, consisting of a screw type master link. You do have to keep an eye on the screw type master link connection to make sure it is tight, vibrations tend to loosen the connection when the chain is new.)
Wheels – Mavic Ellipse Clinchers ($500)
(These are bomb proof wheels, had them for three years now and never had to true nor do any thing to them except change tires. Used for training, sprinting and racing)
Tires – Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX 23mm Clinchers for Mavic Ellipse. ($60 each)
(Great supple lightweight clincher tires. I’ve notice that 125 psi is the optimum pressure for these tires on Kissena Track.)
Wheels – Karbona Disk & Tri Spoke Tubular ($1,000 for pair)
(Value for money carbon fiber wheels ordered directly from Taiwan. These are used for time trials and racing.)
Tires – Tufo S3 Lite Tubular 19mm Front & 21mm Rear ($60 each)
(Light weight high pressure tubular with 19mm tubular on the front for better aerodynamics on the Karbona carbon fiber tri spoke wheel and 21mm on the disk. I’ve noticed that 140 psi with these tires seem to be the optimum pressure for Kissena track, anything higher and you are in for a rough bumpy ride especially when using aero bars.)
Chainrings – Sugino & FSA ($50 each)
(These are the most popular and affordable brands. Chain rings in my set are 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 & 53)
Cogs – Dura Ace ($20)
(Most widely available and popular. Cogs in my set 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. Gear ratios which I use are 79, 81 86 for warm up and 88, 90, 92 & 94 for racing, 96 to 108 for time trials)
Shoes – Specialized Body Geometry Pro Road Shoe ($250)
(Specialized body geometry products are well designed and best value for money without breaking the bank.)
Pedals – Shimano DurAce SPD - SL 7810 ($250)
(I’ve pulled out one too many times from the Nashbar Look styled $40 pedals on the track. It is a shame the weakest link on my track bike set up were the Nashbar Look pedals, using no float black cleats. The only reason for using these pedals was to be able to use the same shoe on my road bike, spin bike and track bike. I therefore needed a better solution for the track. Andrew LaCorte, Michael Robinson & Delroy Walters recommended I get the Shimano SPD style pedals and add a toe strap at the back using tie wraps. This solution is more secure with the no float red cleats - the tension on these pedals are very high, the toe straps are an added security measure for standing starts. There is no way of simply adding a toe strap to the Nashbar Look styled pedals.
Shimano Dura Ace SPD-SL 7810 pedals with added toe strap using tie wraps.
Nashbar Look styled pedals.
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